Roll over: Looking for the finest grapes with which to craft the finest wines, Albert Bichot has gradually bought vineyards in the most sought-after locations in Burgundy.

Bichot's Les Clos has power and richness on the palate. with a hint of toasty oak, and rioe stoned fruit characters, this will develop into a fine Grand Cru given a couple of years in the bottle. There is plenty of precision here and there is clearly plenty more to come. Decanter