Roll over: This is gorgeous, with a gently sweet and focused frame of date and dark rum hints

A tawny color and deep, lush aromas of pecan pie, toasted almond and brown sugar open this stylish amontillado made from wines that went into barrel 30 years ago or longer. Toasty richness accompanies requisite flavors of almond and peanut, while this is elegant and lasts for ages on the finish. Drink through 2040. Michael Schachner